Thakoon has thousands of ideas, as is evident in this extensive, divergent Pre-Fall collection, which covers mainstay sportswear themes of the 1990s. Calvin Klein blank-page silhouettes in black and primary red, geometric-print column dresses, and once-modern asymmetric silk draping take turns in what is a disjointed series of conflicting images. What lacks is purposeful cohesion. Stovepipe trousers, paperbag-waist miniskirts, a printed pantsuit, and a full-length henley dress all appear in this series of 42 looks.

Together these differing ideas, falsely presented as a collection, feel forced and oftentimes dated. The prints are mild, the colors staid. I expect more from Thakoon, whose Resort 2011 collection was fresh and allowed effortless transitions to unfold.

(Photos from

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